The brown Otago landscape is a welcome sight after the drenched green fields of Taranaki. The deep blue water of Lake Wakatipu is surrounded by mountains sweeping skyward, their rugged peaks draped with snow. The mountain air is brisk – my senses seem to sharpen with its chill.

Downtown-Queenstown visitors are busy with their cameras capturing the sense of place and smiling perfectly for group selfies. Lines of people crowd the pavement three or four deep outside Fergburgers – the roaring trade for burgers is a licence to print money. Tourists are wearing puffer jackets while the locals are lightly clad, some even in shorts.