Kumara Junction, 25 kilometres south of Greymouth, marks the beginning of the Glacier Highway. We swing west but don’t get far before we pull into Needful Things, a quirky treasure trove of retro, its entrance marked by a blue Morris Minor. Inside, the store is brimming a cornucopia of antiques, books, clothing and curios. With no EFTPOS available, I hand over five dollars for a 1975 pressing of Fred Dagg’s Greatest Hits, and then scrounge another $10 for a small Crown Lynn swan. Owner/operator Jackie Hill is a great conversationalist, a native of Lancashire and generous to a fault.

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